Interviews

As Ethiopia’s artisan sector faces globalisation’s pressures, a new generation of designers is redefining what “handmade” means in a digitally connected and fast-changing world. Mekdes Mesfin, Founder and Creative Director of Demii Design, believes that craftsmanship and innovation can evolve together — sustaining livelihoods while shaping a modern national identity through design and empowering communities to see fashion as cultural continuity, not merely commerce.

Ethiopia’s cotton sector, once a pillar of African textile production, is being re-energised through renewed coordination between farmers, industry, and policymakers. At the centre of these efforts is Tsegaye Abebe, Executive Director of the Ethiopian Cotton Association (ECA), who outlines how the country can convert its vast but underutilised cotton potential into a sustainable and competitive national asset.

Saudi Arabia’s growing ambitions in fashion and textiles took centre stage at the 3rd Saudi Fashiontex Expo in Jeddah. The event brought together participants from 25 countries, highlighting the Kingdom’s push to align creativity, trade, and sustainability. Steering this transformation is Filiz Karakul, Managing Director of event organiser Pyramid Group, who explains how the platform is helping redefine Saudi Arabia’s role in the global textile landscape.

The bio-based textile economy is entering a decisive phase as technological innovation reshapes how natural fibres are harvested and processed. At the centre of this transformation is Niels Baert, Founder of Hyler, a Belgian company pioneering hybrid agricultural machinery for fibre crops. His insights reveal both the industry’s persistent challenges and the opportunities driving sustainable fibre production forward.

As global supply chains undergo legal and environmental scrutiny, Cambodia’s garment sector stands at a crossroads. Persistent labour challenges, climate shocks, and governance weaknesses threaten its export competitiveness. In this candid interview, Andrew Crawford, Research Fellow at the German Institute for Global and Area Studies, explains why swift structural reform is essential for survival.

A new era of textile innovation is unfolding, driven by digital tools, material transparency, and collaborative thinking. At the heart of this transformation is Mijke van Ballegooijen, CEO of Byborre, whose platform challenges conventional production and design systems. She explains how empowering creators and rethinking supply chains can reshape the industry’s creative and environmental future.

The Netherlands is pursuing ambitious circularity targets through extended producer responsibility, aiming to raise textile reuse and recycling rates while driving systemic reform. A collective framework is helping coordinate producers, recyclers, and innovators, even as legislative pressure grows and cross-border harmonisation efforts intensify under forthcoming EU regulations. In this context, Sekhar Lahiri, Director of Stichting UPV Textiel, discusses the challenges and opportunities shaping the transition.

Tunisia’s textiles and apparel industry stands at a turning point, balancing cost pressures with rising global expectations. At this year’s ITF Intertex Tunisia, conversations will extend beyond traditional strengths, focusing on sustainability, innovation, and regional integration. Managing Director Serhan Pul explains how Tunisia aims to reposition itself as a competitive, responsible, and future-oriented partner in global trade.

A key organisation playing a vital role in the hemp movement is Inagro, which provides research and advice in agriculture. Crop Researcher Sophie Waegebaert about the organisation's work with farmers, and the challenges facing hemp as an alternative textile fibre.

The future of cotton in fashion is at a crossroads, threatened by weak transparency, limited certification impact, and the growing dominance of synthetics. In this interview, Tamar Hoek, Senior Policy Director (Sustainable Fashion), and Annemiek Smits, Corporate Engagement Manager for Fashion at Solidaridad, share why brands must prioritise fairer procurement, stronger accountability, and investment in farmers.