Interviews with Amilani, Rukshika, Annika

Sri Lanka fashion
The fortunes of Sri Lanka’s apparel industry are heavily dependent, some might even insist over-dependent, on the two markets. That might make Sri Lanka a bit vulnerable; at the same time, the same set of statistics would also indicate that the prospects of expanding to other markets are phenomenal. Avirate

Luxury as Ethics
 

Designer: Amilani Perera
Launched: 2013
Website: amilaniperera.com

With a doctor as mother and an engineer as father, for Amilani Perera fashion almost didn't happen. The parents gave in to the daughter's flair and passion to paint and draw, but not before she had studied statistics and economics. Yet, even after she had done fashion design from Singapore's Lasalle College, Amilani's parents were wary about her jumping into the industry straight away and launching her own brand. So, she started out as a designer with MAS, honing her skills for amanté. Soon, she was also a consultant for the Hanes label of Arvind Lifestyle Brands. By the time she eventually launched her own label during Colombo Fashion Week 2013, Amilani had already long arrived on the scene.

Some highlights from a conversation:

  • The market in Singapore was very different from the one here. The opportunities for young designers in Sri Lanka are much more. The clientele at home is much more open-minded and willing to try out Sri Lankan designers.
  • What I learnt at MAS was how things work on a bigger scale. My products were being mass produced and designs being printed in rollsit was a different experience altogether.
  • Everything (from Lasalle to MAS) groomed me. When Arvind wanted me to be a consultant given my background as a lingerie designer, it was a big international exposure in terms of working in a different culture as well as working environment.
     
  • I started my own brand even while I was working at MAS. There was no conflict of interest as my brand was outerwear; they were in fact every encouraging in seeing me do my own thing.
  • It was a lot of trial and error initially because I launched my brand even when I was with MAS. So, at the back of my mind, I still had a day job.
  • I do design for clients abroad, but those are more custom-based. In terms of bigger markets, I am still studying and exploring them.
  • Initially I wanted to do resortwear as well. Even at CFW, I did one season in resortwear, which of course has a huge potential in Sri Lanka. But my couture lines have been working much better.
  • The weddingwear is a bit season-driven (as in wedding season), but I also do have clients coming in from countries like Australia. What my clients like about me is my own signature style.
  • I had a collection of accessories made from waste metal, but it is difficult to sell those in Sri Lanka. But that remains at the back of my mind. I need some more time and also knowledge about how to do it.
  • For my ready-to-wear line, I use cotton or environment-friendly synthetics. I don’t use silks or leathers, or anything that is not vegan.
  • I have five people working with me.

 

Chic as Frolic

Designer: Rukshika Fernando
Launched: 2015
Website: rumpunchresortwear.com

As a youngster, Rukshika Fernando loved to draw. Pursuing fashion at the Academy of Design (AOD) in Colombo was only natural. The much-needed experience before venturing out on her own came as working as a senior designer for Victoria's Secret at MAS Holdings. Her own brand, together with partner Binara Seneviratne, was launched in 2014 at AOD's Sri Lanka Design Festival and internationally at the London Graduate Fashion Week. With Rukshika as designer and Binara providing the business acumen, Rum Punch went commercial a year later as an exclusive brand for holidaymakers and fashion-conscious consumers. The brand’s tagline and her own motto are the same: Discover your island spirit.

Some highlights from a conversation:

  • After AOD, I spent eight years at MAS. In between I took a year’s leave to finish my degree in fashion (since the academy offered only a diploma when she had started studying).
  • My graduate collection was Rum Punch; simply love swimwear. I had no plans about my own label at that time. But after that graduate collection, I started getting enquiries.
  • Whenever I travelled, I would make my own swimwear purchases. I didn’t strike me at that time that Sri Lanka did not have its own fashionable swimwear brand. So, I did a small quantity to see if it would work. That was sold out in two days flat.
  • Because of the relationship I had with MAS, they came on board to manufacture our products. In Sri Lanka, it was only MAS who could do a quality product.
  • We have just launched in Singapore, but Sri Lanka is where we sell most. We don’t have our own standalone stores, but our products are available at three outlets in Colombo, and down south as well.
  • When we did our research, we noticed that many tourists would come with one or two swimsuits thinking they could buy more in Sri Lanka. But since most of them would be here for surfing, among other things, the bikinis would not serve the purpose; they would need the right wear.
  • We do three collections in a year, and a limited range during Valentine’s Day. We do 15 styles for the main summer collection of JuneJuly.
  • We have been selling in India through an agent. Through Zalora, we sell in five countriesSingapore, Philippines, Thailand and Hong Kong. Next up would be Australia.
  • Under the ‘Fuze’ section on our website, you can custom-design your swimsuit. On the site we ask for 10 days’ time since an order is placed, but we have been able to make deliveries within five days.
  • We have five people working with us. Social media operations are outsourced.

 

Elegance as Design

Designer: Annika Fernando
Launched: 2013
Website: pr.lk

The Fernandos of Colombo are the first family of design. In 1987, Udayshanth Fernando established Paradise Road as a small store selling handpicked antiques and contemporary designed local handicrafts. Today, the Paradise Road chain includes five retail outlets and PR, the concept store named after the original shop by elder daughter Annika. But then, Annika was an interior designer before she ventured into fashion. PR, the multi-label store, is housed under the same roof as the eponymous gallery of younger sister Saskia. Taken together, they present a confluence of art, design and fashion, and it is difficult to tell where one begins and another ends. PR itself started as a curation from select designers in Sri Lanka and India, and then went on to inspire Annika’s own label: Maus.

Some highlights from a conversation:

  • There are countries who have been buying from us (Sri Lanka) for years and we have been exporting the best. It is not so easy for local designers to tap into that production facility to produce for the local market, which I find so sad. I am lucky that I am able to tap in a little bit into sample rooms, etc. I have that access for my own label. I have had the ability to produce my own swimwear label through Linea Aqua, which is one of the best swimwear manufacturers in the world. But it is not something that ine would be able to access easily.
  • When I am dealing with young designers, eve for my retail store, one of the biggest problems is their production I have to return items for simple things like zippers and finishing, which actually should not be an issue because we have the production capability here. But young designers are not able to tap into that. But I don't think that happens only here. I am sure this happens also in India.
  • The Maus Organic line is made with organic cotton and natural dyes at the factory which imports that fabric for me. The Maus Swim line was started in 2016.
  • CFW started its own Swimweek in 2015, and then Linea Aqua opened facilities to Sri Lankan labels to create their own collections. I looked at it differently than a lot of other designers. For me, it was to fill up a gap as a retailer. I needed swimwear; so, it was a natural progression for the label to have a swimwear line.
  • The swimwear has one collection every year, with about a dozen styles in each.
  • I grew up watching my parents grow this business--and retail. I always loved retail. I think it was a love for design and retail, and fashion just happens to be an extension. I am not a huge fan of the word 'fashion'; to me it is clothing. To me, it is about curating beautiful things.
  • Right now, I juggle my interior business, retail business and clothing label in about half a day.