texfash

Europe’s denim industry has put data where its mouth is. A new regional collection helmed by Denim Deal shows that traceability, accountability, and aesthetics can function as one production system. By hard-coding transparency into every stage of design and manufacture, European mills have turned circularity from experiment into standard practice across their factory floors.

The conversation around denim is shifting from surface aesthetics to systemic responsibility. In this changing landscape, Carme Santacruz, Creative Director and Senior Denim Designer at Jeanologia, discusses how designers can balance creativity, technology, and emotion while pursuing sustainable transformation, ensuring that new processes respect heritage, enable experimentation, and keep the human essence of denim alive in a digital future.

Circular denim has stepped out of concept decks and onto the hanger. At the recent Kingpins Amsterdam show, an international alliance of mills and recyclers helmed by Denim Deal unveiled full collections proving that post-consumer cotton can compete on price, quality, and design. What was once sustainability rhetoric is now a ready-to-order reality for the industry.

Ethiopia’s experiment with industrialisation has transformed its social fabric as much as its economy. Behind the walls of its textile factories are thousands of young women and men who left rural life in search of stability and progress. Yet, their experiences reveal a complex story of resilience, disappointment, and adaptation. At the centre of this analysis is Michaela Fink, author of Labor Turnover in Ethiopia’s Textile Industry Global: A Hotspot of Social Transformation, who documents how industrial work reshapes identities, families, and communities across Ethiopia.

The shifting dynamics of global apparel sourcing are bringing new regions to the fore, and Ethiopia is increasingly in focus. Supported by industrial investments and a young, trainable workforce, the country is courting European manufacturers seeking reliable alternatives to Asia. Susanne Pass, Managing Director of Dialog Textil-Bekleidung (DTB), outlines how sustained engagement, infrastructure development, and training can position Ethiopia as a long-term player in the international textile landscape.

The dynamics of global sourcing are evolving, and Africa is positioning itself at the heart of these shifts. With infrastructure built through Asian partnerships and an expanding manufacturing base, the continent is becoming part of a broader rebalancing of global trade. Guiding this transformation is Skander Negasi, Chief Executive Officer of Trade and Fairs Consulting, organiser of Africa Sourcing and Fashion Week, who underscores that Africa’s sourcing story is now one of resilience, resourcefulness, and rising capability.

As Ethiopia’s artisan sector faces globalisation’s pressures, a new generation of designers is redefining what “handmade” means in a digitally connected and fast-changing world. Mekdes Mesfin, Founder and Creative Director of Demii Design, believes that craftsmanship and innovation can evolve together — sustaining livelihoods while shaping a modern national identity through design and empowering communities to see fashion as cultural continuity, not merely commerce.

Ethiopia’s cotton sector, once a pillar of African textile production, is being re-energised through renewed coordination between farmers, industry, and policymakers. At the centre of these efforts is Tsegaye Abebe, Executive Director of the Ethiopian Cotton Association (ECA), who outlines how the country can convert its vast but underutilised cotton potential into a sustainable and competitive national asset.

Guatemala’s largest secondhand clothing retailer, Megapaca, sits at the heart of a national reuse system that challenges prevailing ideas about circular fashion. From ropa cruda flows to fibre recovery through NovaFiber, its model shows how commercial scale, redistribution networks and data-backed transparency can extend garment lifespans and deliver circular results where public systems remain fragile.

In Guatemala’s crowded ropa cruda markets, women dominate the trade, running stalls that support households in an economy where informality exceeds 70%. Surveys reveal their ownership, participation and wages outpace national averages, forcing a reconsideration of how circular value is defined — and who benefits when discarded garments gain a second life.